Wandering Arkie goes to the Arctic. Leaving civilization.

Arctic Bay pre-day #1

The Arctic travelers converge on the Shell Aero FBO terminal in Ottawa, Canada. We be flying charter! It’s an older Beechcraft twin engine prop plane. The information sheet in the seat back
says it is powered by turboprop engines, but I swear the “fuel” truck says “Purina” on the side and there are rodent droppings under the cowlings. Flight crew very concerned about weight, even though plane is only half full. Single seats on either side of the aisle. No facilities, so we were very careful with hydration. Specifically, we didn't drink anything for 7 hours. And I was dreaming of the coffee, cooling in a carafe not 10 feet in front of me. I don't think the cabin heater was working. Or, maybe they were just trying to get us acclimated to the Arctic conditions.

Our transportation

The first fuel stop was in a larger airport near St. James Bay. I can't even begin to pronounce the names of the destinations served. Completely empty. 2 commercial jets (Inuit Air) silent on the tarmac.

Second fuel stop (starts with a ‘P’ followed by a long string of unpronounceable vowels and consonants) was teeming with Inuit of all ages. Our 7 of European descent and 2 Chinese stood out like beacons. I thought African American children were cute, but Inuit children are the cutest. No toilet paper or paper towels in the bathrooms. Dirt runway, which created all sorts of unnerving sounds on touchdown. In fact, dirt everything. Ice, rocks, dirt and a few tufts of scrub grass are all that cover the ground. Kinda reminds me of Albuquerque. Commercial jet was leaving just before us, kicking up clouds of dust.

Did I mention dirt?

Airport ‘terminal'

Terminal (?) in Arctic Bay. There's a small building with lots of antennas and electrical looking stuff sticking out of the top, but there wasn't anybody there and we couldn't get to the bathrooms. We discovered later that the man in charge of the airport headed out on a hunting trip a couple of days before we arrived and wasn't expected to return for several days. No worries. Apparently, the landing lights can be turned on remotely from the approaching aircraft. And there is never more than one plane arriving or departing in any week. Midair collisions are unheard of in this part of the world. I guess I feel comforted, but I really needed to use the restroom.

Anyway, we were greeted plane-side by the van, one of only about 10 functioning internal combustion vehicles that have wheels instead of treads in the area.

Maybe I should introduce the cast of characters:
Francoise- expedition leader. She is an Arctic Bad Ass!
Vickie- ass't expedition leader. She is learning to be an Arctic Bad Ass, but is well on her way.
Hal & Cindy
Michael and Alberta from Hong Kong. Michael is retired from his profession as chief sales agent for China for Carrier (air conditioners) and Moen (of kitchen/bath fixtures fame). Alberta is a retired nurse.
Dale, a pharmacist from Toronto.
Clive, a surveyor from London. Dale and Clive met on a trip to Antarctica 16 years ago and have met up on an adventure at least once a year since. To say that Clive is colorful is an understatement. Dale plays the straight man to Clive's schtick.
Denise, a retired school teacher from a town in Ontario I cannot pronounce (the name is French). Sault Ste. Marie.
Lise, a PCP from Sudbury, Ontario. Denise and Lise are cousins and travel together a lot.
David, a radiologist from Minnesota. Also, very well traveled. Has a passion for birds and has travelled around the world bird watching.
And Steve, Justin, Daryl, Apak, who were our Inuit guides.
And Matt, Andrew, Cayden, Norman, who were the kitchen staff.
And Emory, the camp leader.

There we go.

Inuit throat singer

Off to the “hotel” in Arctic Bay. It’s about what you would expect in a ‘hamlet’ of 400 people in the farthest northern reaches of the planet.

View out of the hotel window

We are fed. Then serenaded by Molly, an Inuit throat singer. You have got to hear Inuit throat singing. It sounds like
Shirley Temple being eaten by hungry polar bear while singing “The Good Ship Lollipop”. All sarcasm aside, it is truly amazing that the human throat can issue forth the combination of sounds produced by throat singers. Check it out on YouTube.